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Entries in detail (4)

Monday
Feb222010

Attack of the Car Wash Cafe!

Hi everyone,

Thanks for reading.

Today i was tasked with cleaning up the mess left by a cheap car wash cafe cut and polish. As you will see in the befores the person that completed the work had no skill in using a polisher at all. They have used an aggressive compound that left a huge number of marks in the paint. 

I performed a Double Stage Enhancement to attempt to get most of the marks out. I'm proud to say it worked! There are still some swirls remaining in the paint but you have to look for them now, whereas before they smacked you in the face as you walked past.

It makes me sad that people think its acceptable to do this to people's pride and joy!!

Anyway enjoy the pics and as always comments and questions are welcome.

Dan

Before













 




After
































p.s. Its my first time using a DSLR camera so apologies if the pics aren't up to standard.

Saturday
Feb202010

How To: Care for Failing Clearcoat

Hi Everyone,

Thanks once again for looking at my blog.

Today's blog post was a special request from the guys at the VW Watercooled forum.

So to start off let's cover what failing cleat coat is and what causes it.

Layers of Paint

When a modern car is painted there are three distinct layers of paint:
1. The primer or basecoat. This is the first layer or paint that is sprayed down over the bare metal, plastic or composite body of the car. The colour of this will depend on what colour the final car is going to be but it is almost always either grey, white or black.

2. The colour coat. This, as the name suggests, is the layer of coloured paint which you can see once the car is painted. This varys depending on what colour you, or the previous owner chose for the vehicle. It can either be a solid colour or a metallic colour. If Metallic or Mica then the paint has been mixed with different coloured flakes of metal or natural Mica. There are many different coloured flakes available for example red cars can have gold metallic, such as Mazda's Copper Red Mica, black cars can have blue flake, such as Ford's Silhouette and silver cars can have silver flake like VW's Reflex Silver. The type of flake varys between manufacturer.

3. The clearcoat. The clearcoat is the very top layer of paint on the vehicle. As the name suggests this coat of paint is clear. Clearcoat varys widely between manufacturers. Some, like Honda's, are sticky which makes them harder to polish, and some like Subaru, are soft, which means they mark easily and some like VW, Audi and Mercedes are very hard due to using a specialist clear called cerramiclear. This means they require special cutting compounds but are very durable and yield a great finish.
It is the clearcoat that you polish, wax or seal and it is the clearcoat that has to deal with all the environmental damage such as bird droppings, jet fuel, industrial fallout and mineral etching.

Why Does Clearcoat Fail?

So now we have an understanding of what clearcoat is we can look at what causes it to fail.

There are three main causes to clearcoat failure:

1. First is impropper paint bonding. This occurs when the clearcoat is layed down incorrectly over the colour coat. The bond between the two is not achieved and as such the clear will slowly begin to bubble and peel from the vehicle. This picture shows the failing clear on the left hand side of the boot lid. The right hand side had a filler wax applied to mask the problem for the owner.

2. The second is removal of too much clearcoat. This often occurs when the vehicle has been agressively buffed a number of times or if the vehicle has been wetsanded by an inexperienced operator. This leaves the clearcoat thin and as such it's UV blockers are removed and it gives in to the effect of the harsh Australian sun. 

Image care of Autogeekonline.net

3. The third is lack of protection. Some people just don't look after their cars and as such the paint work never saw any wax or sealant. Over time the effects of the environment took their toll and you're left with a mess that needs to be sprayed to be fixed up.

 

Slowing Failing Clearcoat

So your clearcoat is failing, what can you do to stop it? Well in short, nothing. Once the process has started it can't be stopped. You can however attempt to slow it.

If your clear is peeling due to a poor bond with the colour coat or insufficient film build there are a few things you should do:

1 . Always wash and wax or seal from the strong side of the clear to the failing side this will prevent you from getting contaminates and solvents stuck under the failing clear. It will also mean that you do not lift the edge with your cloth or app pad.

2. Use a good quality wax or prefrebly a sealant with both UV-A and UV-B blockers. Examples of these are Duragloss 105 , Zaino Z2 Pro and Nanolex paint sealant. This will restore the UV blocking properties and assist with the slowig down of the clear failing.

 

There are also a couple of things not to do:

1. Pressure washing. If the jet of the pressure washer hits the failing clear then it cause it to lift, further exasperating problem.

2. Abrasive polish. If the clear is already failing there is no need to help it along by thinning it out further. Even light polishing may make the situation worse so it is best to stay away all together. If you are massively concerned with swirl marks then use a filler polish such as Autoglyms Super Resin Polish or Ultra Deep Shine and top it in Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection.

 

Preventing Clearcoat from Failing

So what if your clear is fine? How can you stop it failing?

1. The main thing to do is always use a quality carnauba wax or a quality synthetic sealant. This will act as a barrier between the environment and your paint. This sacrificial layer will take the force off the bird droppings, jet fuel and mineral etching meaning your clear coat stays in pristine condition.

2. Secondly be wary of who machine polishes your vehicle. A lot of unskilled tradesmen will use agressive cutters that will remove a lot of marks but also a lot of paint. Ensure that anyone that is agressively correcting your vehicle either through machine polishing or wetsanding is experienced as is using a paint thickness gauge (below) to assess how much film build remains between all the steps.

As always feel free to ask any questions or leave comments.

Dan

Wednesday
Nov182009

Shiny New Services

Hi all, its Dan Dan the Bufferman here,

Recently I have become aware of the increasing trend towards more segmented services, both in general and in the detailing industry. As a result I have recently updated my service offerings. I really took some time to think about who my clients are and what they would want to achieve and have reflected this in what i feel are very practical and tailored detailing solutions.

 

Check out my website for more information or have a look at the overview i have posted below

Please let me know what you think, because after all without you, there would be no services!

 

Kind Regards,

 

Dan

 

Services

DMS Detailing understands that not everybody is looking for the same result. For this reason, we have created three service categories offering three different outcomes, depending on you and your car's needs. 

 

Details

These are our most economic and basic of services, offering maintenance or solutions for the time-poor individuals who would like DMS to take care of their vehicle regularly.

Services range from a Standard Wash to a Full Detail, and prices start at $40.

 For information and prices click here

Enhancements

Vehicle Enhancements are for those who wish to take their vehicle presentation to the next level. Vehicle Enhancements will remove minor swirl marks and scratches while leaving a high gloss and shine. 

Services include a Single Stage Enhancement and a Double Stage Enhancement, starting at $220.

 For information and prices click here

Corrections

Paint Correction is for the vehicle owner who desires perfection. Whether you have a modified vehicle and would like the 'show' to match the 'go', or whether you desire a superior finish for your daily drive, a DMS Detailing Correction is for you. We devote at least a full day to pamper your vehicle until it reaches the pinnacle of vehicle presentation. 

Corrections start at $700 for up to 8 hours.

 For information and prices click here

 Packages

DMS Detailing has developed tailored packages to suit many vehicle owner's specific needs. Whether you have recently purchased a new vehicle, or are looking to enter your pride and joy into a car show, you will find a DMS package to suit you.

For information and prices click here

 

Tuesday
Nov102009

How to: Maintain your Vehicle with Premium Products

Hello car lovers, your friendly neighbourhood Detailer Dan here.

I’ve been requested to write a how to guide for people that want to look after their car but with premium based products.

Before I start ill just say the products and processes I use will not work for everyone in the world. You really need to use this as a guide and find what works best for you. In saying that, I’m not going to get too technical so you will be able to work out what is what very easily. Some of the products mentioned will be off the shelf variants. All the products I’m mentioning I have had personal experience with. All products are available from any good car product supplier/retailer, my supplier is Car Care Products.

Washing

Washing the car is the most regular thing we do in terms of maintaince. There is a lot of info floating around regarding what to use what not to use. There are 3 main principles that if followed will see you washing correctly every time. They are:
1. Use two Buckets
2. Use PH Neutral Wash
3. Use Microfiber cloths 

Why 2 Buckets?
When you wash the car the dirt from the car gets transferred to your mitt. When you dunk it back into the wash solution that dirt stays in the solution for next time. Effectively what you’re doing is washing your car with dirty water.

When you use 2 buckets one is full of wash solution and the other rinse water. 
Once you have hosed down the car (preferably with a HP washer) you get your clean mitt and dip it into the wash solution. Using very light pressure wipe the dirty panel using straight lines, not circular motions.

Once you have done say a guard or half the bonnet, dip the mitt into the rinse water and run your fingers through the fibres to help get the dirt out. Squeeze the water out of the mitt.
Return the mitt to the wash solution and do the next panel. As always do this in the shade, don’t let the shampoo dry etc. 
It’s always to go from top down. Personally I do the wheels and tyres last but it’s up to you. I give them a HP rinse before I start and I finish them off by hand. I don’t use wheel cleaners unless they are very very bad and the one I use you can’t buy, however ill still give you some good ones to try.

Product Recommendations
Dodo Born to Be Mild


Duragloss Cherry wash Concentrate


Aquatouch Microfiber Wash Mitt


Mint Microfiber Wash Mitt


Drying

Once the car is all washed, it’s time to dry. To dry there is no better tool than a Microfiber Waffle Weave Drying Towel (WWDT). I use the extra large towel, which is able to try a whole Land Cruiser or Discovery without being wrung out. You could most likely get away with a large if you wished but in my opinion the XL is the way to go.

To dry using a WWDT is very simple. I fold it into quarters to start. I then dry the windows to help prime the towel. This isn’t necessary when new but after a while (like a year) it will help them dry.
When drying the paint again use no pressure and slowly drag the towel across the paintwork. If there are trace amounts of water left flip the towel and give it another light pass over.
Once that section of the towel gets saturated turn it inside out and go again. 

Product recommendations
Mint WWDT

 

Waxing or Sealing & Polishing

Waxing is a crucial step in the care if your vehicle. It protects the surface from the everyday nasties like bird bombs, tree sap, water deposits etc. 
It’s also very important to note that waxing and polishing are two very different things. 
The biggest misconception I come across in detailing is people that don’t understand the difference between waxing and polishing. I can see how they get confused, but here is a rundown of each process and how they are different.

Polishing 

Polishing is used to fix paint defects. Polishes can be either chemical or abrasive. Chemical polishes include things like Swissvax cleaner fluid, Polylack Nano Clean and Zymol HD Cleanse. They chemically clean the surface to remove contaminants and defects. They will not remove swirl marks. For this you need an abrasive polish. 
For abrasive polishes there are many brands. The best I have used is Menzerna. But the Meguiars professional range is abrasive as is the optimum polishing range. Abrasive polishes need a machine to reach their full potential. Either a random orbital or a rotary. Abrasive polishes have tiny little abrasives suspended in the liquid. This is what does the work, the size and type of abrasive varies depending on the polish you use. The abrasives round the edges of the scratches and swirls so they can no longer be seen. In the case of swirls and fine scratches they are removed. In the case of deep scratches they are always reduced and with the use of wet/dry sand paper can be removed. Menzerna Powergloss has large abrasives which remove large defects but leave the surface full of marring and quite dull. Then there is Menzerna intensive polish this is between the two but on most colours needs to be followed with final finish. This depends on the pad used. Menzerna Final Finish leaves the surface free from defects and with a great depth and shine. Here are some pics so you can see the difference 

After powergloss

 
After Intensive polish 
 

After final finish 


Waxing 

Waxing is the last step you do when washing or detailing your car. That is why you may see it referred to as the LSP (last step product). The purpose of waxing is to create a barrier between your paint and the environment. Most waxes contain UV inhibitors to stop the sun damaging the paint. They also repel water which stops your paint getting etchings from watermarks. There are many may different LSPs out there, both natural or synthetic or even a mixture of both.

Natural

Natural waxes tend to give more of a warmth and a glow. These waxes range in price starting at around $50 and up to $19000. Brands include Swissvax, Zymol, P21S, Dodo and many many more. These are the boutique brand waxes. You can get off the shelf waxes but I don’t rate them for durability or look personally. If they are working for you then go for it! Natural waxes also tend to bead water. This means the water forms tight little beads that run off very easily. If you have a freshly waxed car and drive it in the rain you will find the water will just run off. The lower end waxes and off the shelf waxes last 3-5 weeks before needing to be reapplied whereas the higher end can last 6-8 weeks. 

Synthetic 

Synthetic products do not contain wax. They, for the most part contain polymers or acrylic. These are the two main types of sealers. Sealers include Duragloss 105, Zaino Z2 and Z5, Polylack Nano seal, Optimum opti seal, Klasse AIO, Zaino AIO. Sealants start at around $35 for the boutique brands. I have found Zaino to be the best as it can be layered unlimited times but still remains optically perfect if you use Z2. Z5 will not as it has fillers to hide swirling.

Sealants give a different look to wax. It gives a look that is best described as sterile. The paint is shiny but it lacks the warmness and glow of a natural wax. Some sealants like the Klasse make the car look like it has a plastic coating. Some people love this look so leave it others, like myself, don't and then top it with a natural wax. Synthetics tend to sheet water. The water wont form beads, rather it will just run off in a sheet is the best way to describe it. Sealants leave a very slick and slippery surface. Sealants also last a lot longer than a wax with most giving at least 3 months protection and up to 12 months for layered sealants. 

Combination waxes 

These have a mix of both natural and synthetic waxes present. These are waxes like Optimum car wax (OCW). They are a good compromise as they give the look of a natural wax and some of the durability of a sealant. Layered OWC can last 3-4 months. 
Filler waxes 
These are waxes like Meguiar’s NXT range. They contain things called fillers which fill swirls and scratches. The fillers also mute the metallic in the paint so it won’t pop as much. As the product wears off the defects return. I don’t like filler products as they wear off and the surface looks bad again. 

This car has natural wax (Swissol Scuderia ~$200) 

This one has Zaino Z2 Pro layered 3 times and topped with Z8 

 

Product Recommendations

Polishing
Menzerna Polish kit


Heavy Duty - Menzerna Powergloss (High Cut, very low gloss)


Medium duty – Menzerna P203S (medium to high cut, medium gloss. Follow with PO85RD)


Light duty/High gloss – Menzerna 106FF (same gloss as 85RD but more cut, use on its own)


High Gloss/ Very light duty – Menzerna PO85RD (same gloss as 106FF but very little cut, use after P203S)


Wax
Dodo Supernatural Paste Wax


Dodo Colour Charged Soft wax

(note: the above link if for Orange crush. Look at the other soft wax's to pick the best one for your paint type)

Dodo Colour Charged Hard Wax


Dodo Lime Prime


Dodo Lime Prime Lite

 

Sealant
Duragloss 105


Duragloss 111


Zaino Z2


Zaino Z5
http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/pr...how_car_polish


Spray Hybrids
Optimum Car Wax


Duragloss Aquawax.


Not as long lasting as OCW but it’s applied while the car is wet, is the perfect boost to a car sealed in Duragloss 105. It adds a very nice shine and some extra protection and only takes an extra 3 or 4 mins.

 

Well, I hope this has been informative for some of you! Until next time ... 

Dan